It’s gotta bleed! A warning to any Blondes d’Aquitaine who venture down to Le Severo’s underground space: they will be deboned, chopped up, sliced and stored in a cold room to dry-age for 60 days… The same fate awaits their Limousine, Normande, Simmental and Black Angus sisters! The man responsible for all this carnage? William Bernet, the serial butcher who sharpened his blades at Les Boucheries Nivernaises before carving up his own custom bistro (varnished paneling, a big zinc bar, wooden furniture, a wall mural by Michel Tolmer). Here, his eternal accomplice Johnny Beguin cooks the meat with great care, all while doing some charcuterie double-duty: boudin noir from Christian Parra, andouille from Guéméné, rosette from Vic… The day we went for lunch, we opted for: a lovely deboned grilled pig’s trotter; explosively flavorful beef tataki backed up by anchovies from Santoña and golden fries; before some racy mirabelle plums lounging on an ultra-crispy flaky crust. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? Biodynamic wines: an Anjou red from Céline and Benoît Blet (€7 a glass), a Maranges white from the Domaine des Rouges Queues (€86 a bottle) or an Alpilles red from Dominique Hauvette (€110).
PRICE: À la carte €28-86.
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