Inside his retro bistro (paneled walls, a long bar, XXL blackboard menus), former butcher William Bernet doesn’t kid around when it comes to meat. Talk to him about the fatty Bazas beef, marbling or dry aging (which he does himself in his basement cold room), and you’ll see a quiet man turn into a very loquacious one! And he gives the chef Johnny Beguin plenty to play with, who’s been cooking up good things for almost 30 years now. Our lunch that day: boudin noir from Christian Parra (€12); Simmental faux-filet dry aged for 50 days, cooked to divine perfection and served with 24-carat fries that were out to win a César (€44); followed by an excellent cherry clafoutis (€8). To drink, there are a hundred wines that don’t come cheap, including an organic white Bourgogne, Le Vendageur masqué (€8 a glass) or, for something biodynamic, a Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune from the Domaine des Rouges-Queues (€45 a bottle) and a Pic-Saint-Loup from Le Mas Foulaquier (€65). À la carte €27-88. // M.Z.