Roco (Paris)

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In this corner pizzeria and the second spot from multiple-time offenders Giesbert and Ross (Roca, Daroco, Rococo, Perruche…), there’s no cheesy décor. Instead you’ll find a peacock blue façade, unfinished stone walls and light wooden furniture, in a space that’s open seven days a week to feed the neighborhood’s pizza-loving crowds. The objects of desire? Neapolitan pies made with soft dough that’s matured for four days and baked inside a gas- and wood-fired Marana oven, from which they come out perfectly golden and plump. Tested and approved wholeheartedly the day we went for lunch: a divine Margherita with tomato, fior di latte, basil and oregano, selected from 16 other options, like the lovely Viziosa (cherry tomato sauce, San-Daniele ham, arugula and burrata), the very snobby Tartufata with truffled ham, or a non-conformist Nordica – artichoke cream, buffalo mozzarella, fennel salad, grapefruit vinaigrette and Dijon mustard! If you want a little more, there’s burrata and eggplant caviar for the antipasto, and a famous tiramisu with crushed Piedmont hazelnuts to end on a high note. // S.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s Spritz (€12) or wine – a Piedmont red Giunot from La Prevostura (€6 a glass), Tuscan whites – Vernaccia-di-San-Gimignano Cappelo Sant’Andrea (€34 a bottle) or Rosso-di-Montalcino Isole e Olena (€49).

PRICE: Aperitivi €6-12, pizza €11-19, desserts €3-9.

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