Dark wooden tables, atmospheric light fixtures, a rough-hewn bar, an open kitchen… In his sober, zen-like inn, the Osaki-born master chef Yoshihiro Suzuki (ex-Issé and Orient Extrême) crafts outstanding sushi and sashimi with his agile hands. The day we went for lunch, the impeccable lunch menu was deserving of a perfect ippon score: stunning chawanmushi to start (a lightly smoked Japanese mushroom flan); delicate marinated chanterelles with a dashi jelly and crispy shrimp chips; ultra-tender sea bream and tuna sashimi; striking beef tataki with a yuzu-soy-dried bonito jus; before some addictive poached strawberries, matcha-flavored Philadelphia cream cheese and vanilla ice cream with black sugar from Okinawa for a brilliant conclusion to the meal. Savor it all on the terrace when the weather’s nice! // J.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a large selection of small producer sakes (like the Honshu-Ichi at €10 for 90 ml), a few hand-selected bottles (including a Chablis from Dampt Frères at €10 a glass), organic Japanese tea from Kyoto (€5 a teapot) and Kirin beer on tap (€7 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Bento €39, menus €25-47 (weekday lunch), €47-62 (dinner) and €110.