In this minimalist little spot (dark brushed painted wall, blond wood ceiling), chef Yoshiaki Ito pampers the very best ingredients, such as vegetables from Annie Bertin and duck meat from Burgaud… Slicing, pairing flavors and cooking with incredible precision, this former chef at Hiramatsu serves a seven-course tasting menu that’ll knock you out before the final round: divine red kuri squash gratin with a smoked hay emulsion atop a carpet of hay; tender Corrèze veal tartare with raw shrimp from Charente, covered in a lively lovage oil and multicolored radishes; beautiful pan-fried foie gras tucked amongst a corn purée, with braised corn kernels and roasted mini corn, all wrapped up in gleaming wagyu cecina; a subtle brill fillet that was masterfully cooked and bathing in a perfect beurre blanc sauce with black trumpet mushrooms, the first chanterelles of the season and grated bottarga; superb duck suprême with a meaty rosemary-infused jus, barely seared green beans and mandolined porcini; before two desserts by the chef… First a combo of rhubarb confit, quartered white peaches, red currants and verbena oil, then a fresh pineapple brunoise, coconut ice cream and marigold syrup – incredible! // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a wine list that’s particularly respectable in Burgundy (Leflaive, Ramonet, Fleurot-Larose…); with an excellent Vouvray, Les Caburoches, from Jacky Blot (€45 a bottle); or a Crozes-Hermitage from Laurent Combier (€42). The wines by the glass are just as exciting: a delicate Monthélie red from Fanny Sabre (€16), a fruity Sancerre white from the Domaine Vacheron (€14), etc.
PRICE: Menus €52-78 (lunch), €110-180 (dinner), food and wine pairings +€45-65.
