In this minimalist little spot (dark brushed painted walls, a blond wood ceiling), chef Yoshiaki Ito pampers the very best ingredients with an unprecedented level of precision when it comes to his cooking techniques and flavor combos. The day we went for lunch, the former chef for Hiramatsu put on a sublime four-act performance, with some subtle amuse-bouches as a prelude: tomato gazpacho mousse over a bed of burrata di bufala; an extremely thin orange and tomato tartelette covered in rhubarb; corn velouté with a cacao espuma presented in a porcelain egg; an incredible gougère with cream of Comté and Parmesan aged for 30 months, backed up by a Roscoff onion beignet topped with an anchovy from Getaria; slices of ikejime bluefin tuna covering an unforgettable Basque blood sausage with cep mushrooms, seasoned with mustard seeds and modestly covered in a veil of razor-thin noir de Bigorre pork belly; monkfish from the Finistère department covered in piri-piri sauce, served with clams, new potatoes, black trumpet mushrooms and chanterelles; before a dessert duo of an astonishing raspberry sorbet with slow-roasted peaches, peach jelly and crème pâtissière, and an exceptional meringue ice cream with wild strawberries. Such a refined experience! // Albert Gredinbar
FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that’s particularly respectable in terms of Burgundy wines, and that will drain your bank account: an Aligoté from the Domaine Charlopin Tissier (€18 a glass), a Meursault 1er cru from Pierre Morey (€390 a bottle), a marsannay red from Lou Dumont (€79), or even, just for laughs, a Chambertin grand cru produced by Armand Rousseau (€4,200)…
PRICE: Menus €60-220 (lunch), €175-250 (dinner).
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