Midnight blue walls, Peter Hoffer paintings, porcelain plates from Sylvie Coquet, beautiful flower arrangements from Debeaulieu…. Noam Gedalof (ex-Sergent Recruteur) and Etheliya Hananova, a chef and sommelier duo in work and play, have turned Yoni Saada’s former restaurant Miniatures into a chic spot. The day we went in late July, seated around white tablecloths, we let the set lunch menu guide us: a refreshing vichyssoise soup that was “de-vintaged” by the small toasts topped with lardo di Colonnata; swaggering crispy skinned chicken with tender meat and gnocchi in a vin jaune sauce on the side, reminiscent of happy Sunday afternoons; before a delightful cherry and mascarpone tart with a scoop of lemony frozen yogurt. For the libations, there’s a mineral Riesling from Clément Busch (€14 a glass), Bois des Merveilles, a dreamy and organic Minervois from Jean-Baptiste and Charlotte Senat (€16), a Crozes-Hermitage from the Domaine Combier (€70 a bottle) or Champagne! Jacques Lassaigne blanc de blancs Les Vignes de Montgueux for €125. Menus €46 (Thursday and Friday lunch), €80 (lunch) and €120 (dinner), food and wine pairings +€40 and €60, à la carte €70-110. // P.A.