Comice (Paris)

© Comice

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Despite its bourgeois trappings (Sylvie Coquet porcelain, bouquets by Debeaulieu, starched white tablecloths), we promise you won’t be bored at Comice! Located in the depths of the 16th arrondissement, running things is the lovely Canadian couple, Etheliya Hananova (ex-Sergent Recruteur) and Noam Gedalof (ex-Astrance). The former tends to the guests and the wines, while the latter stitches together some intricate plates – the five-course menu the other night simply went to prove it: gougère cheese puffs in Mornay sauce that tickled the taste buds; delicious line-caught bass carpaccio woken up by cucumber marinated in a briny mousse; jubilatory golden gnocchi with black trumpet mushrooms in a stunning Albufera sauce with jus de viande; lamb prepared three ways (fillet, sweetbreads and bone marrow) with chard and carrots in jus; before a spirited white peach sorbet with Champagne mousse, then an incredible chocolate soufflé topped with an erudite ice cream made with six different varieties of vanilla! // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Around 20 wines are served by the glass from €8 to €18 (a Côtes-Roannaise from the Domaine des Pothiers, a Bourgogne-Aligoté from Fanny Sabre…), alongside collector-worthy bottles: a Savagnin Ouillé from the Domaine Overnoy (€92 a bottle), an Hérault red from La Grange des Pères (€250), etc. Plus, there are a few dainty cocktails like the Bluebird – Tanqueray gin, Luxardo marasquin, Uccelli Aperitivo bitters and lime (€18).

PRICE: Tasting menu €88 (food and wine pairings + €44), dishes à la carte €18-44.

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