Noam Gedalof (former sous-chef for Antonin Bonnet at Le Sergent Recruteur) and his wife Etheliya Hananova have opened up Comice. It’s a nod to “comices argricoles,” or agricultural fairs, and this chic space (Yoni Saada’s old restaurant Miniatures) designed by Nicolas Kelemen has midnight blue walls, Peter Hoffer paintings, mouse grey benches and Debeaulieu bouquets. Noam cooks up highly flavorful dishes, with similarly high prices…. For us, the night we went: a mouthwatering Gascon porc noir ham plate from Patrick Duler (€18); mandolined porcini mushroom salad with a green apple brunoise and finger lime from the producer Bachès (€18); roasted guinea fowl suprême with whole miniature carrots, chard and chanterelle mushrooms sautéed in a poultry stock (€36) – or a perfect veal fillet softened by a bone marrow cream with pancetta, black trumpet mushrooms and delicious roasted potatoes (€42); before a tasty dessert of incredibly light fig tart with pistachio cream and a scoop of vanilla ice cream (€14). And to help it all slide down, there’s a winning wine list: Sicilian SP68 from Occhipinti (€11 a glass), a straightforward Burgundy red from Fanny Sabre (€39 a bottle), or Grusse en Billat, a brilliant white Jura from Ganevat (€84), from amongst the 100 mostly biodynamic labels. Lunch menu €80 and dinner menu €120. À la carte €64-104. // G.LeP.