Attentive staff, carefully-made cuisine, a beautiful setting (Zalta glasses, Sylvie Coquet porcelain, Debeaulieu bouquets)… By opening Comice in one of the Parisian neighborhoods with the fewest restaurants d’auteur, Etheliya Hananova (ex-Sergent Recruteur) and Noam Gedalof (ex-French Laundry and Astrance) have done a fine job. The other night, this Canadian couple won us over yet again with their five-course menu: gougères with Mornay sauce to awaken our appetites; Quiberon tuna belly sashimi lit up by a buttermilk vinaigrette; incredible cauliflower preparations (roasted, reduced into a purée, mandolined, fried) topped with capers; fresh tagliatelle della casa swimming in an erotic shellfish beurre blanc sauce; splendid, perfectly cooked Breton lobster with roasted beetroot and a port reduction, served with really good homemade sourdough bread for wiping the plate clean with; before a stunning Valrhona chocolate soufflé overflowing with love! // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are twenty-some wines served by the glass from €9 to €18 (a Côtes-du-Jura white vieilles vignes from the Domaine Overnoy, a translucent Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune red from Devevey…) and excellent bottles: a Meursault from Antoine Jobard (€170), a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Henri Bonneau (€795), etc. Not to mention the erudite cocktails, like the Bluebird made with Tanqueray gin, Luxardo marasquin, Uccelli Aperitivo bitters and lime (€18).
PRICE: Menu €140 (food and wine pairings +€70), à la carte €114-144.