Old Boy

How’s it going, Old Boy? The favorite haunt of Asian cinephile party animals in the Châtelain district has stepped up its game for its six-year anniversary. Gone are the days where you could push back the door at any time of day or night and order a few well-made plates while sipping a fun little nectar. Now, the long counter where John Prigogine and Xavier Chen (the owners of Rambo) unveil their spicy flavor bombs serves a five-course tasting menu (vegetarian, meat or fish options) upon reservation, and only at night. The day we went, all of the following set off sparks at our table: an amuse-bouche of slow-cooked radish with peanuts and shallots over a bed of blood orange; fried tofu bao with kimchi mayo that was a tad oily; bite-sized balls of cos lettuce stuffed with pollack, garlic and herbs that packed a fiery punch; a razor clam curry (that was a little sandy, unfortunately) with fried Thai basil; sautéed vegetables with miso and gomae, enoki mushroom tempura and pickled turnip; ending with a Vietnamese coffee ice cream and coconut mousse. As we age, whether you’re an Old Boy or not, we often get more serious. For those who prefer take-away, Lil Boy located right next door is the place to go. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? A lovely list of rather festive natural wines: Freaky, an Italian rosé from the Sete winery (€46 a bottle), XL, a Catalan white from Partida Creus (€47), Bonsaï, an Austrian red from Claus Preisinger (€53)… And other refreshments: natural sakes from Yoigokochi (€7-13 a glass), carefully chosen beers (L’Ermitage, Illegaal, 3 Fonteinen, €4.50 to €42, from 330 to 750 ml), and cocktails (€13).

PRICE: Set menu €50 (5 courses, at dinner), baos €6 (each), shared plates €12-20, dessert €9 (lunch).