A mere spin of the pasta machine away from the Saint-Bo(lo)niface church, Giacomo Toschi has made Osteria Bolognese a sanctuary of Italian home cooking, served just like in Emilia-Romagna, his native region. Red straw-bottomed chairs, gingham tablecloths and silly kitsch knick-knacks, the traditional decor fit the authentic cuisine served the night we went: adorable fried asparagus all’emiliana doused in a syrupy Modena balsamic vinegar; a gigantic potato, truffle and porcini mushroom pie; plump tortellini dusted in Parmesan; or, recommended (and ordered) a previous night, masterful pasta al ragù with expertly-rolled egg tagliatelle and a sauce simmered for hours; before an invincible tiramisu made with savoiardi ladyfingers and mascarpone. Reservations are essential, except on Wednesdays, when you’ll have to pray to the goddess of Bolognese to get a table. // Monica Nolli

FEELING THIRSTY? A modest selection which pays tribute to Emilia-Romana wine producers, like the Grasparossa di Castelvetro lambrusco (€34 a bottle) or an organic sangiovese Giogiò from Azienda Giovannini (€32).

PRICE: Antipasti €11.50 to €27, pasta €19-23, secondi €25-27, dolci €7 to €8.50.