Oxalis

Tucked away in the oldest part of Périgueux, the talented Antoine Romagné (ex-Plaza Athénée during the Ducasse years and Symbiose in Bordeaux) celebrates a litany of flavors in the former chapel of the Dames de la Foi convent (a timeworn medieval facade, vaulted ceilings, a windowed kitchen). The day we went for lunch, the young chef began his litany with some delicious poulet jaune corn-fed chicken from the Périgord department, simply grilled and then moistened by a mussel, mezcal and squid ink jus, with shiitake mushrooms and pickled red onion; followed by a perfectly prepared hake fillet, roasted low and slow for 30 minutes and served with organic veggies from the Ferme des Tistous in Chancelade, including whole carrots and carrot purée with Sansho pepper (or lemon pepper), plus green asparagus, roasted tomato, grilled broccoli, spring onions and celery; before, for the final blessing, some graceful organic strawberries from the Dordogne, with a matcha mousse, pistachio crunch, marigolds and strawberry coulis. // Gérard Roubeix 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Lovely finds from the Chai Bordin: Lux, a Corbières white from the Famille Fabre (€5 a glass), Renaissance, a vouvray from Sébastien Brunet (€36 a bottle), Gibus, an exceptional Périgord red from the Château Barouillet (€60)… Unless you’d rather opt for an organic Nuit Blanche craft beer from the BAM brewery in Périgueux (€6 for 330 ml).  
PRICE: : Set menu €25 (main course alone €15) and €40 (lunch), dinner menus €55-75.