Up on the Puech du Suquet surrounded by Aubrac lands, there’s a modernist cathedral built from glass, granite and steel. Ever since 1992, the Bras family (today Sébastien, Michel’s successor) has been celebrating their liturgy of flavors there and delighting us with divine menus. The day we went for lunch, the €147 menu included: subtle cow’s milk curds, mackerel escabèche and turnips, for the initial blessing; a celestial shredded rabbit shoulder in aspic, crusts of bread with olive oil and a blonde pea, squash and basil purée; radiant sea bream that was steamed and then plancha-grilled, with radish, parsnip, apple compote, Mexican chepiche and a reduction; a prodigious Challans duck breast roasted on the bone, with sweet tooth mushrooms, licorice-hinted carrots, roasted corn and an olive/muscovado sugar condiment; a delightfully stretchy aligot made with Institut de Beauvais potatoes; a gourmet regional cheese platter, including an incredible Laguiole aged for 32 months; before the final benediction, some graceful roasted figs served with a black currant/blueberry sorbet and a red wine jus. // P.L.
FEELING THIRSTY? A wine book that’s as thick as the bible: a natural Tarn Mauzac from Plageoles (€17 a glass), a Bergerac white from the Château Tour des Gendres, a Marcillac from the Domaine de la Carolie (€55 each bottle), a Coteaux-du-Loir red from the Domaine de Bellivière (€80)…
PRICE: Menus €147, €170, €188 and €240.