In the heart of the Aubrac on the Puech du Suquet, there’s a modernist cathedral where the mineral and vegetal worlds commune with one another in a divine union. One day in September, the score played by Sébastien Bras on the Aubrac menu (€145) lit up terroir and family traditions: exceptional Morisseau mussels electrified by kalamansi vinegar, with fennel (the bulb and as a mousse), green onion and herbs from the garden (spignel, sweet cicely, tarragon); inimitable salted cod from Saint-Jean-de-Luz steamed in black olive oil and paired with coco de Paimpol beans, pumpkin, a vinegary jus de viande, shiso and chameleon plant; before some nice lentil flour pasta with chanterelles and pois blonde, a spignel jus, a turnip emulsion, epazote and amaranth; then a stunning guinea fowl from the Cantal, both poached and roasted and sublimely tender with a tomatillo jus de cuisson, chanterelles, tetragonia, figs and Winter’s bark. What came next? A folkloric aligot that was smooth and stretchy, and a memorable platter of Auvergne cheeses (Laguiole aged for 22 months and an incredible fourme d’Ambert), before delicious wild blueberries in a light syrup, with cookies and a lemony cream, plus a yunnan tea ice cream. As for the wine collection, you’ll find precious bottles selected by Sergio Calderon, the only Argentine in the world who speaks with an Aveyron accent: a Chenin from François Chidaine in the Loire (€15 a glass), a red Côtes-de-Duras from the Domaine Mouthes Le Bihan (€15), a white Bergerac from Luc de Conti (€50 a bottle), Les Acacias, a Cahors from Fabien Jouves (€95). Menus €145-178-230. // P.L.