Swaddled pata negra ham legs, braided garlic heads hung from the ceiling, crates of wine, vintage tinned seafood cans… In his intimate wine bar, owner Bruno Crouzat-Reynes (who also raises cochon blanc pigs in the Aveyron) slices up the goods while popping open bottles of wine and chatting with the customers! The night we went, the food was terrific: a hefty pork trotter terrine (€12); jambon de coche (€16), Bellota pata negra ham (€23), excellent cheeses (€12-18), etc. Plus, there are roughly one hundred bottles of wine to choose from, all scribbled out on the blackboards: Gaillac from Plageoles (€5 a glass), Petit-Chablis from the Domaine Jean Dauvissat (€39 a bottle), Saint-Joseph from the Domaine Bernard Gripa (€42), etc. Platters and plates €6-24. // D.C.