At this pretty, 18th-century building, the dashing Thomas Collomb (ex-Maison des Cariatides in Dijon) sends out pretty, modernized terroir cuisine with help from his wife Lucie. The day we went for lunch, served in a country bistro setting (black banquettes, bottles of wine on display, hanging light bulbs): a moist gougère; gentle line-caught Albacore tuna mi-cuit and seasoned with a spiced fishbone jus, chickpeas and diced watermelon; comforting free-range roasted pork with savory and a Barolo vinegar caponata; before apricots preserved in honey and an aniseed-flavored hyssop sorbet, paired with a crisp oat shortbread, for the very sweet dessert. // A.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a veritable directory of local wines (around 800 labels), including great vintages which can be tasted by the glass (starting at €35) or by the bottle, including a Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits red from Claire Naudin (€73), along with a Côtes-du-Jura white from Pierre Overnoy (€34 a bottle) or the Domaine Labet (€36).
PRICE: Menu €23-33 (weekday lunch), €28 and €38, à la carte €42-58.