Le Bistrot Lucien
After bursting onto the scene in 2014 with chef Thomas Collomb (La Maison des Cariatides in Dijon), the legendary Rôtisserie du Chambertin has transformed into a contemporary bistro with glam décor and an eastern France oriented wine list: Côte-de-Brouilly cuvée n°2 from Raphael Champier (€5 a glass), Côtes-du-Jura Lias from Julien Labet (€39 a bottle), Marsannay Au Larray from Gilles Ballorin (€67) or a Nuits-Saint-Georges from Philippe Pacalet (€160). It’s a crucial stop along the wine route, and an excellent choice for meat: try the admirable homemade pâté en croûte with mustard seeds; the free-range rabbit saddle with sautéed new potatoes and oyster mushrooms from Fort d’Hauteville – a very gourmet dish that was just a little too salty for our tastes; and a classic citrus floating island. Menus €23 (weekday lunch) and €38, à la carte €43-54. // D.N.