Ease off the pedal, make an emergency stop! Inside this old roadside inn, thirty-somethings Camille Carton (trained under Anne-Sophie Pic and at Michalak bakery) and Jérémy Riou (ex-Le Quinzième with Cyril Lignac, Maison Verot) have turned the highway lunch stop into something genuinely worth pulling over for! Dishes burst from the kitchen into a bright, simple, recently renovated dining room (exposed stone, untreated wood), with views of the surrounding countryside and passing traffic. To the left, a river; to the right, forest – both inspiring the midday menu: punchy venison terrine with pickled radishes and excellent sourdough bread from Le Fournil des Diablotins; an unbelievable fillet of matured catfish from Jean-Thomas Vuillard, flash-seared with an umamiso marinade and paired with carrot purée, Brussels sprouts and buttery glazed turnips; before a sweet one for the road, a citrussy-fresh dessert combining clementine jelly, meringue sticks, grapefruit segments and peaks of whipped cream. Tank’s full for the next leg of your journey! · Pascal Diagonale

FEELING THIRSTY? Local and regional gems are on hand: an aligoté from Chapuis & Chapuis (€6 a glass), Les Trognes de Pinot, a pinot noir from neighbor Benoît Kilian at Domaine La Cotelette (€45 a bottle) or a côte-de-nuits-villages from Maison Romane (€82).

PRICE: Set menu €24.50 (weekday lunch), set menu €39.50 (dinner and weekends), appetizers €10, mains €22-24, desserts €6.50-8.