The fireside kir days are over! Now it’s time for cocktails made by Hortense Mérie, who came to help her mother Marie. That’s something of a miniature revolution for their four-century-old chalet with stone and larch-paneled walls, where we come time and again to cozy up inside with animal pelts and thick wool blankets for a taste of the chef’s classics. The day we went for lunch: powerful artichoke and beaufort terrine (€18) or tasty grilled eggplant, tomato confit, sheep’s milk yogurt and a supple chickpea cream (€17); leg of lamb cooked over the embers, with crispy skin and pink meat, served in a hiker’s portion with a classic gratin dauphinois, zucchini, garden herbs, carrots and fennel (€25); before a homemade Ispahan dessert combining raspberry sorbet, litchi, rose jelly and a blueberry meringue (€10). To drink, there are wines that go down easy: Les Cassagnes, a Côtes-du-Rhône-Village from La Nerthe (€6 a glass), a Roussette-de-Savoie from Eugène Carrel (€33 a bottle), an Arbin from Fabien Trosset (€36). À la carte €40-55. // G.D.