How did this illustrious Phocaean izakaya slip past Le Guide Fooding for almost the past five years? It’s a mystery. But since all’s well that ends well, Ko-Ishi (“small pebble” in Japanese) is now part of our national eat-list! It’s a Nippo-maniac spot filled with colorful prints, shiny lanterns and old manga, where the passionate self-taught chef Christophe Caiola sends out incredible Asian dishes. Take the day we went for lunch: dog cockles in a dashi that’s as powerful as Son Goku’s Kamehameha attack (€6); incandescent eggplant marinated in ginger (€5.50); a prophetic cabbage okonomiyaki pancake dipped into a bonito broth, with ginger, scallions, egg, cheese and shavings of dried bonito (€9); before a nourishing dorayaki, a sort of pancake stuffed with cinnamon-spiced red beans (€4.50). When it’s time to say “kampai,” there’s Kirin by the bottle that goes down easy (€3.50 for 330 ml) or a majestic Ohyama sake (€5 for 40 ml). // G.L.P.