Poissonnerie du golfe

Poissonnerie du Golfe (Marseille)

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Google calls it the “Poissonnerie du Golfe,” the old-fashioned storefront reads “Poissonerie Coquillages,” but regulars refer to it as “Chez Lolo,” for Laurence Ciccarelli, the fishmonger with a sunny disposition who’s been running this shop for the last 30 years, which is 90 years older still. A curtained entrance, “fresh tuna” scribbled out on the door, and prices written in marker on the colorful tiled walls… this is what we call a neighborhood fish shop! Depending on what’s fresh at the market, Laurence sells as many local and seasonal options as possible – you won’t find any farm-raised trout or salmon here. The morning we went, all of the following were on display in the shop: a beautiful swarm of mackerel, plump red mullet, stunning soles (€42.80/kg), oysters from the Côte Bleue, fried smelt (€17.80/kg) and tuna from the next town over (€39.90/kg). // J.M.

Hidden gem: The incredible shrimp (€21.90/kg), caught off the coast of Marseille, which Lolo suggests you gobble up as a carpaccio!

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