Ourea (Marseille)

© Ourea

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Why not ditch Paris for some fun in the Marseille sun? Camille Fromont and Matthieu Roche (ex-Semilla) did just that in 2018. Inside Georgiana Viou’s former restaurant behind the Palais de Justice, this pair of aces whips up neo-bistro cuisine to the tune of the changing seasons. The other evening, seated in their colorful one-room-kitchen (coral walls, green banquettes, yellow light fixtures, a white-tiled bar), the set menu waltzed us through four courses: a dashing cluster of al dente haricots verts with baby cucumbers infused with geranium, slices of feta and pickled cherries, all paired with a cucumber and pistachio gazpacho; a masterfully flash-seared line-caught tuna with shaved zucchini and a chilled zucchini and preserved lemon purée, samphire and ox chorizo; a sumptuous veal filet mignon served medium rare with roasted green pepper, green harissa, capers and some lemony steamed eggplant; before a giant peach mousse camouflaging a hibiscus jelly, over a generous bed of streusel and quartered fruit. // J.G. and A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a beautiful selection of organic and natural wines: a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€6 a glass), a Bourgueil red from the Bretons (€28 a bottle) or a Roussillon white from Le Clot de L’Oum (€34).

PRICE: Menus €26 (lunch) and €39 (dinner).

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