From former professional dancer to chef at Les Grandes Tables de la Criée, Charlotte Baldaquin now finds herself in a blue apron near the opera house. Seated in the little, shade-filled courtyard of her lovely restaurant (zinc-topped bistro tables, a wood-clad kitchen and bar), we dined on all of the following the day we went for lunch: an ever-fashionable herring and potato salad revived by fresh dill; an unpretentious hard-boiled egg topped with black garlic mayonnaise; octopus lounging on a well-balanced bed of hummus with roasted red kuri squash, pomegranate seeds and fresh herbs; a graceful half-eggplant prepared like parmigiana, paired with tomatoey black rice; before a languorous chocolate lava cake caressed by a summer berry coulis. // Victoria Bout
FEELING THIRSTY? : A concise wine list that features, for example, a Var blend from the Domaine Terres de Nus (€8 a glass), an Alsatian skin-contact wine produced by Les Vins Pirouettes (€30 a bottle) and a local curiosity, a Ferroni ratafia reduction for your Picon-bière.
PRICE: : Set menu €19-29 (lunch) and prix-fixe menu €29-37 (dinner).
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