With its small bodega-like dining room (zinc-topped tables, tomette tile floors) and its wooden terrace on the asphalt, George Weill’s wonderful little dive is the ideal barometer for the general mood in Nîmes. Féria partiers and artists have been hanging out here for years thanks to its gem of a lunch menu (€13). The other day: a nice hummus with coriander seeds, basil and crisp salad; sausage from his friend Gilles (a former butcher in the covered market nearby) and tender oven-roasted eggplant; before a cheeky caramel flan for dessert. At night, the menu gets a little more rustic: Lyonnais-style tripe salad; veal flank steak with an Aveyron chanterelle mushroom sauce; taureau de Camargue steak with an anchovy jus… And to wash it all down, some of the major local players in the natural wine scene are there to help you out (Marc Kreydenweiss, Laurent Bagnol, Mas Mellet…) or a glass of red wine from the Domaine Louis Julian (€2). // R.deC.