Despite looking like a smooth-talking bistro (mosaic tiles, a zinc-topped bar, a little library corner), Le Baratin doesn’t spew any hot air. The best proof? The armies of gourmet Parisians (with Pierre Hermé, Bertrand Grébaut and Inaki Aizpitarte leading the pack) who have made this place their heavenly hangout. That’s because Raquel Carena certainly knows how to win people over. The night we went, it was a total knockout meal. For the appetizer: diced bonito delicately marinated with citrus vinegar, shallots, haricots verts and mixed greens – or a voluptuous calf’s brain poached with lemon butter. For the main: lovely roasted suckling lamb shoulder on a bed of spinach – or poularde from the Patis farm with onions and ginger, served with vegetables (potatoes, leeks, carrots, turnips). And for dessert: a soft strawberry-rhubarb cake, made even better by a Savagnin from Buronfosse (€5 a glass). And since we’re talking about wine, let’s keep it going with Pinuche, the man in charge of these outstanding bottles: Côtes-du-Rhône Domaine du Pourra (€30 a bottle), Vouvray from Sébastien Brunet (€42), Morgon from Foillard (€45) … Menu €19 (lunch), à la carte €39-58. // J.G.