Le Baratin (French for “baloney”) is as no nonsense as ever! The great Raquel Carena has been speaking frankly and passionately about bistrophony for 25 years now, articulating and accenting with glee. Lunch the other day was a fine demonstration in situ, as she recited the lunch menu in her old-fashioned Parisian inn (an earthy bar, broken tiles, giant blackboards): perfect herbed beef tongue in vinaigrette; an ultra comforting roast chicken with matchstick fries moistened by a seductive onion jus; before a delightfully intense chocolate mousse. All washed down with top-notch natural beauties! At night, served à la carte: quail en escabèche with almonds and grapes; suckling lamb shoulder with new potatoes and spinach; crispy beef cheeks and sautéed vegetables; a fromage blanc bavarois with a red berry coulis… // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? “Pinuche” (Philippe Pinoteau) still collects unconventional wines: an aromatic macerated Slovenian white from Cotar (€6.50 a glass, €39 a bottle), an obligatory traditional Morgon from Foillard (€8-48), a round Tavel from Pfifferling (€42 a bottle)…
PRICE: Menu €19 (lunch), à la carte €38-56 (dinner).