As busy as he is bringing some glory back to the Auberge du Père Bise’s legendary culinary coat of arms, Jean Sulpice still managed to equip it with a mighty bistro. Expect a brasserie ambiance inside (bistro tables, light leather benches, copper suspension lamps), and views of the boats from the terrace, which provide the setting for his homage to the local terroir. For us, on this evening in the middle of the heatwave: a classic, light lake crayfish tail gratin, with a flaky crust judiciously twisted into pieces for dipping in the Nantua sauce; fera fillet caught in the same lake by Florent Capretti, simply grilled on the plancha and seasoned with a chorizo fumet and a few peas; before an enormous slice of a deliciously old-fashioned Marjolaine du Père Bise, a Belle Epoque cake with three layers (kirsch, praline and chocolate) separated by hazelnut cookies. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? A Vin-des-Allobroges white from Les Vignes du Paradis (€12 a glass), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from Barret (€10), a Savoie red from the Domaine des Côtes Rousses (€45 a bottle) or a white from Belluard (€75).

PRICE: Set menus €38-48 (kids’ menu €19-22).