On an almost too-busy street with quite a few bars, chef Clément Torres (Top Chef season 7 contestant, Sublime and Den in Tokyo) and sommelier Laure Granier (who used to work at Terroirs Wine Bar in London) provide a priceless experience: a serious change of scenery! In this tavern with arched ceilings that seats 20 guests on two levels, Japanese- and Korean-inspired plates parade out, made with regional ingredients. The other night: bluefin tuna dashi, shokupan with sardines and apricots; beetroots, smoked meagre and gochujang sabayon; followed by the last tomatoes of the season, flash-seared and served over fresh tomatoes, chunks of grilled octopus from Grau-du-Roi and raw bonito cured kobujime-style; Koshihikari rice in a crab shell and soy sauce broth, topped with dried flying crab and shiso; and finally, a creamy pastis d’Annecy cake with cashews and agastache. // Sofia Sétif 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A resolutely natural wine list: an orange wine from the Frères Engel in Alsace (€53), Pierre Frick wines and a few Slovenian and Italian options. Wines by the glass for €8 to €11. 
PRICE: : Set menus €30 (weekday lunch), €48 and €66; food and wine pairings €35 and €55.