Lionel Créteur from Belgium and Laurence Couillard from Quebec moved their restaurant from Tillac to Lectoure, to a former bistro that’s been given a beautiful makeover – white walls, grey banquettes, modern light fixtures. Donning a gavroche cap, Lionel (ex-Bouchéry and Comme chez Soi in Brussels) has the entire francophone world won over with his €22 menu. For us, the day we went for lunch: a lovely goat cheese faisselle, fresh peas and pea purée, mint, seaweed and a crispy tuile; tasty Gers beef cheeks, tender green asparagus, potato mousseline with garlic mustard and a red wine sauce – we wiped the plate clean with the exceptional organic bread made by Maxime Suiffet; before, for the well-balanced finale, some nice cream puffs flavored with tanacetum. // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines selected by Laurence: a rich Minervois, Le Régal du Loup Blanc (€7 a glass), an aromatic Côtes-Catalanes white, Laïs from Olivir Pithon (€32 a bottle) or a powerful Madiran, Vieilles Vignes from Christine Dupuy (€35).

PRICE: Set menus €19-22 (lunch), €30-42 (dinner).