Moirax’s main attraction is its 11^th-century Clunisian priory. The second most important attraction is the inn that pays tribute to it. That’s where you’ll find Benjamin Toursel (a Ch’ti who used to work for Trama) taking an audacious approach to his impressive cuisine, in a timbered and corbelled spot with stone walls and modern furniture. Want some proof? Take his unbeatable menu that packs some excellent bang for your buck (€35, a glass of wine and coffee included), served in the shade of the paulownias. The day we went for lunch: after two amuse-bouches (a rich haddock cream with smoked radish, carrot purée sprinkled with a curry crumble), a beautiful runny egg tucked amongst pan-fried chanterelles, caressed by a parsley coulis and a chanterelles emulsion sprinkled with hazelnut crumble; unforgettable Gascon cochon noir pig’s cheeks slow-cooked and served pink in the center, paired with pot-au-feu vegetables and moistened by a magical lemongrass broth – wipe your plate clean with the tasty bread from MOF baker Frédéric Lalos; before the delicious finale of pan-fried figs, grapes, blackberries and raspberries, with raspberry sorbet, lemony ganache and a sangria-style fruit juice. // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines that reflect the terroir, of course, with a glass of a Côtes-de-Duras white, La Pie Colette, included in the menu. For those who are even thirstier: Les Greilles, a Gaillac white (€27 a bottle) or Le Petit Sid, a Cahors (€32).

PRICE: Menus €28-35 (lunch except Sunday), €63 and €85 (dinner and Sunday lunch).