Café des Arcades

Fréderic Metvès — the former flanker for the FC Auch rugby club — has returned home! His new arena? After the success of his restaurant Fogo in Toulouse, he’s now opened up an authentic bistro under the shade of Solomiac’s medieval arches, in an L-shaped space with stone walls, wooden rafters and a red sandstone patio, where another Toulouse native, the talented Bastien Rabois (formerly of Miam! chez Bastien) cooks up a storm. The day we went for lunch, the chef scored big with a mouthwatering pork trotter terrine with a piment d’Espelette condiment, followed by some lovely fresh sardines that were grilled and then marinated in a sweet and sour ginger broth, tickled by fermented jalapeños, green tomatoes, and sweet Anglet chilies. All of that was followed by: hearty chicken supreme and thigh (ethically raised by Sébastien Berger in Sarrant) with crispy skin, served with the garlicky drippings, potatoes and black trumpet mushrooms, before a millas cake made with Arto Gorria corn polenta, sautéed in butter and topped with caramelized apples for dessert. Once night falls, things get kicked up a notch with dishes like langoustines in tarragon bisque, or Basque Country veal with celeriac mousseline… // Loulou Pic

FEELING THIRSTY? : Around a hundred living wines to choose from (which can be taken to go, for €10 less than the bottle price): France Lippée, a local red produced by Sébastien Fezas in Courrensan (€5 a glass), Chut !, a Gers sauvignon rose by Dominique Andiran (€40 a bottle), Les Terroirists, a red from the Plageoles in Gaillac (€30). Otherwise, opt for a glass of Skygazer, a beer fermented with grape marc from Montestruc-sur-Gers (€20 for 750 ml).
PRICE: : Appetizer + main or main + dessert for €18, prix-fixe menu for €19.50 at lunch. At night, three to four courses for €29-35.