Another lovesick story! In the band of Japanese knights enamored with French cuisine, the newest culinary virtuoso has sent the old lady to seventh heaven. Yoshinori Morié (ex-Petit Verdot and Auberge du 15) sets taste buds ablaze with his wild techniques in his luminous Saint-Germain-des-Prés bistro with lots of limestone, white rafters and lace-like oak wood engraved with “Kumiko” patterns. Selected from the thunderous lunch menu: a stormy suckling veal tartare on a bed of raw cauliflower with a tidal wave of clams from Utah Beach; free-range pork loin from Corrèze that’s as tender as a shooting star, with Kalamata olives, wood blewit mushrooms, turnips and chickweed. And there’s no rest for gourmet diners: an addictive chocolate mousse with pineapple sorbet and an insanely delicious marigold syrup. Even the wine is getting in on the action: VDP Languedoc blanc, Mas d’Espanet (€8 a glass), Saumur-Champigny from the Domaine des Roches Neuves (€55 a bottle). Menus 35-45 at lunch. €70-95 a night. // M.J.-D.