Abraca-Tara! Rue de la Fontaine-au-Roi has once again fallen under Tara Habis’s spell, as she’s transformed Kamal Mouzawak’s now-shuttered Tawlet (where she once worked) into a spirited all-day spot radiating feel-good vibes from dawn till dusk. Exposed stone walls now frame a pale pink counter, a squiggly neon light and a handful of marble-topped tables, while impeccably sourced ingredients (Terroirs d’Avenir, Source, Fève) land on the plate with new-gen Middle Eastern flair. The magic starts early with homemade granola, wobbly scrambled eggs, lemon and sumac madeleines and flaky chocolate-za’atar brioche, before the comforting trio of soup, salad and seasonal quiche takes over for lunch. Come evening, things gently heat up with dishes like surf-and-turf steak tartare with whipped tonnato sauce, toasted pine nuts and bottarga, or pulled pork croquettes with a luscious green sauce and a playful hit of black garlic. Desserts keep the spell alive, with a chocolate and cacao nib creation with a mint-coriander mousse heart and a fleur de sel cocoa crunch, or even a creamy, sweet-and-savory apricot-lovage number spiked with black olive – enough to make the gods of the Levant green with envy! · Frances To

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of wines you won’t find elsewhere, unearthed by Mathieu Moots: a vouvray from Perrault Jadaud (€10 a glass), Les Encuvés, an aromatic Alsatian blend by Maison Charles Frey (€38 a bottle) or a skin-contact xarello vermell from Celler 9+ in Catalonia (€45). Alternatively, there are Pressé detox juices (€5) and a rose-cardamom cocktail (€13).

PRICE: Set menu €16 (lunch), mains €12-18, desserts €12-14 (dinner), pastries €5 (daytime).