Taratata? Whisper, don’t shout! With its soft fabrics, lush plants and cozy, low-lit atmosphere, this restaurant located in the Quartier Bleu feels more like a spa than a bistro. It’s just as Nele Valkeners (ex-Innesto in Zonhoven) intended, who greets diners with a warm, genuine smile and effortless charm, while in the kitchen, Tom Bollen (ex-Zilte in Antwerp) discreetly works away, delivering masterfully refined, yet unfussy dishes. The evening we went, the five-course menu featured: a clever mini Caesar salad with free-range chicken, pimped out with fennel crumble and a grape-cherry emulsion; celeriac with a brown butter glaze, flawlessly barbecued on the Green Egg, paired with lentils and a surprising ginger and apple sorbet; Atlantic cod served with parsley root, crisp petit pois and a rich shellfish sauce. What next? The vibrant signature pork loin, barbecued to juicy perfection and glazed with a balsamic- and chipotle-based jus, beefed up with chickpea purée, parsnip and fried cauliflower. And to round out the meal, “bière blanche” reimagined as a dessert: vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and a chocolate stout sauce as dark as a moonless night. Taratata doesn’t make a noise – it leaves a lasting impression. · Lina Megalinia

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from Belgium and beyond (Robijn, a Flemish sparkling wine from the Optimbulles estate at €17 a glass, or La Croisade, an Aude viognier from LGI Wines at €30 a bottle), a bold Herkenrode Cantor gin beer from the Cornelissen brewery (€25 for 750 ml) or cocktails and mocktails (€12-17 a glass).

PRICE: Lunch menus €60-80 (3-4 courses), dinner €87-97-117 (4-5-6 courses), beer and food pairings €22-32-42, wine and food pairings €30-40-50.