Glenn Ross (ex-Écailler du Palais Royal and Sea Grill in Brussels) changed his restaurant’s name from Rosch to Ross in 2022 after his alter-ego, Nicole Schellekens, left the party. Regardless, the same spirit and freshness remain in the dishes, which are as lovely as a spring day. For a taste of the action, first shuffle past the open kitchen, before taking a seat on a banquette in the long, narrow dining room. The evening kicked off with an appetizer, before the folie that followed: hard-boiled eggs and mayo enhanced with mackerel roe, Iberian ham and edamame hummus; graceful hamachi (amberjack) sashimi seasoned with umeboshi (Japanese salted plums) and green sea fingers (seaweed); delicate barbecued sea bass smothered in an ‘nduja white wine sauce; matured Basque Txogitxu veal rib steak given a go on the grill, with some tasty roasted asparagus glazed in wild garlic oil, plus guanciale and wild garlic pesto; and for the stunning dessert, honey crunch, carrot cake with orange marmalade, and ginger mango sorbet. // Cleo Popina

FEELING THIRSTY? Classic natural bottles: 3 Rios, a vinho verde from Anselmo Mendes or Chapeau Melon, a white Loire from Jérémy Huchet (€7.50 by the glass), plus Arbois from the Domaine Ratte (€70 a bottle).
PRICE: Menus €35 (lunch), €65 and €82 (dinner).