Sea green walls, industrial neon lights, Tomado shelving units… Decorated by Studio Mur.Mur (who also did Gros Bao and Bel Ordinaire), Arnaud Agostini’s briny shop could easily be mistaken for one of the nearby fashion boutiques. But you won’t find any designer pieces or modern ceramics here, just the very best of the seafood from France’s west coast, displayed on blocks of ice: line-caught bass from Noirmoutier, bluefin tuna caught in the Bay of Biscay, lovely fines de claire oysters from the Vendée, and superb homemade preparations that you can take to go, which elevate the sea’s bounty (herring in vinegar, vol-au-vents stuffed with mussels marinière…). Not to mention the paella that’s sold on Saturdays, served by the ladleful to customers from a giant paella pan on the sidewalk. // T.J.

Hidden gem: The house’s emblematic Spanish Basque cod brandade, served with rustic, garlicky mashed potatoes (€15.50/kg).