The most hotly anticipated comeback of the season. Erica Paredes, whose every move we adored at Reyna and Mokoloco, has finally unleashed her playful magic in the heart of the upper Marais. Set in a visually seductive, terracotta-toned space designed by Artpill Studio (disco ball in the restroom, a sweeping oval counter wrapped around the open kitchen), the chef revisits the flavors of her childhood, brilliantly transforming them into world comfort food with serious swagger. The other evening, while the room buzzed about the fried chicken with butter chicken sauce, we went ga-ga for the Mexican street food-inspired corn salad slathered in mayo, served with crunchy totopo chips and topped with chunks of trout that the chef torched right before very our eyes, then glossed with a thick eel sauce; delicious homemade spaghetti O’s swimming in a dangerously good tomato sauce built on an anchovy and bone marrow base, crowned with decadent parmesan crisps; and, to finish, a sublime Basque cheesecake hiding a molten core of peanut butter and Muscat grape jam. Our eyes kept wondering, too, toward the show-stopping tomahawk steak (1.3 kilos, thank you very much), buried under melted Roquefort and served with charred cherry tomatoes and matchstick fries. Delicious delirium! · Omar Ciboulette

FEELING THIRSTY? A short, straight-talking natural wine list curated by Francis Manzengo (ex-Chez Francis): Granitic, a morgon from Fabien Forest (€10 a glass), Prémices, a chenin-chardonnay blend by Jonathan Maunoury (€45 a bottle) and Collé Serré, a skin-contact white from Antoine Delauney in Nantes (€50).

PRICE: Appetizers €15-26, mains €20-30, prime rib €120 (serves 2-3), desserts €11-12.