Le règne végétal

Restaurant Datil (Paris)

© Pauline Gouablin

  • Date
  • share

Idolized wherever she wanders, the epiphyte chef Manon Fleury already shined at Mermoz and Le Perchoir, and from pop-up to pop-up. Finally, here she is, coolly planting her roots in a trendy space all of her own, complete with white tablecloths and fresh-cut flowers. With her alter-chef Laurène Barjhoux, horizontally leading a young team (almost) without guys, the chef demilitarizes the brigade and brings plants to the plates where only a hint of animality remains, like an extra in the background, just acting as a condiment. On the tasting menu that evening, Manon opened the ball with some meticulously-sourced goods: a congregation of corn with an infused shot, a crackling tuile, a chawanmushi-style flan and a fritter plump with yellow kernels. After that? An enchanting spa of nightshade, tomato, tomatillo and physalis, complete with a tomato and fresh seaweed compote bathed in a rose geranium broth and transcendental kudzu; an imperious raw karuma shrimp with fermented rice cream, peach and shiso whipped into shape with a shrimp, ginger and lemongrass tonic; stunning cuttlefish and zucchini spaghetti aroused with parmesan and fresh almonds, nustling a grilled glazed cuttlefish and Bigorre pork skewer creating a big bang; a squash and potato millefeuille orbited by a quince and lemon condiment and a full-bodied vegetable peel jus. And for the grande finale, in keeping with the tone, an intense raspberry vermouth sorbet followed by an intoxicating Makrut lime-glazed fig atop a crazily good roasted freekeh flan with a fig and almond crème anglaise, plus a scoop of sappy fig leaf ice cream to boot. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? Botanique grape and pine shoot soda from Nos Jardins Imparfaits (€8 for 330 ml) and clean wines: a sparkling Minervois from Emma Olson and Victor Gourreau (€12 a glass), Avant la Tempête, a Savoyard jacquère from Mathieu Apffel (€44 a bottle), and Maximus, an Aveyron red from Nicolas Carmarans (€45).

PRICE: Menus €65 (lunch) and €120 (dinner), food and wine pairings €45 (lunch) and €65 (dinner).

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The Belgium Guide 2024 is out of the oven!

Discover the latest selection of the Kingdom’s 350 best addresses (restaurants, bars, cellars, shops and bedrooms), an award’s list celebrating this year’s favorite spots, and a magazine section featuring « Belgium Underground » exploring the margins of the food world, its hidden stories and some of its most taboo subjects.

2024 Le Fooding Belgium guide frontcover
I want it!

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… And after conquering France, Belgium is Le Fooding guide’s latest playground!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.