Datil

Idolized wherever she wanders, the epiphyte chef Manon Fleury already shined at Mermoz and Le Perchoir, and from pop-up to pop-up. Finally, here she is, coolly planting her roots in a trendy space all of her own, complete with white tablecloths and fresh-cut flowers. With her alter-chef Laurène Barjhoux, horizontally leading a young team (almost) without guys, the chef demilitarizes the brigade and brings plants to the plates where only a hint of animality remains, like an extra in the background, just acting as a condiment. On the tasting menu that evening, Manon opened the ball with some meticulously-sourced goods: a congregation of corn with an infused shot, a crackling tuile, a chawanmushi-style flan and a fritter plump with yellow kernels. After that? An enchanting spa of nightshade, tomato, tomatillo and physalis, complete with a tomato and fresh seaweed compote bathed in a rose geranium broth and transcendental kudzu; an imperious raw karuma shrimp with fermented rice cream, peach and shiso whipped into shape with a shrimp, ginger and lemongrass tonic; stunning cuttlefish and zucchini spaghetti aroused with parmesan and fresh almonds, nustling a grilled glazed cuttlefish and Bigorre pork skewer creating a big bang; a squash and potato millefeuille orbited by a quince and lemon condiment and a full-bodied vegetable peel jus. And for the grande finale, in keeping with the tone, an intense raspberry vermouth sorbet followed by an intoxicating Makrut lime-glazed fig atop a crazily good roasted freekeh flan with a fig and almond crème anglaise, plus a scoop of sappy fig leaf ice cream to boot. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? Botanique grape and pine shoot soda from Nos Jardins Imparfaits (€8 for 330 ml) and clean wines: a sparkling Minervois from Emma Olson and Victor Gourreau (€12 a glass), Avant la Tempête, a Savoyard jacquère from Mathieu Apffel (€44 a bottle), and Maximus, an Aveyron red from Nicolas Carmarans (€45).

PRICE: Menus €65 (lunch) and €120 (dinner), food and wine pairings €45 (lunch) and €65 (dinner).