On the ground floor of this strange medieval/kitsch building, there’s everything you need to be happy: through the right door, the least expensive hairdresser in the neighborhood, and through the left, the offices of the Parisian federation of bun bo xao and pho – each sold in two sizes (L and XL) and at two price points (€8 and €8.90). All that remains is to get in line, which, starting at 12:30pm, gets almost as long as the ticket booths at the Gare Montparnasse on the first day of vacation. Once you’ve been seated at one of the 20 available seats, the pho served by the bà nôi (“grandmother” in Vietnamese) makes you forget all about the half-hour wait time: hot broth that’s tasty and not too greasy, with fresh herbs, soy beans, rice noodles and incredible beef meatballs. The same success for the bun bo xao, packed with fresh herbs, strips of sautéed beef and grilled onions. To drink, there’s Tsingtao beer (€3 for 330 ml). Payment by card not accepted. // D.C.