Since opening in 1936, this Haut Marais hideout has sure seen its fair share of Parisians: everyone from street urchins and artists to former Le Taxi Jaune customers, as well as Sarah Michielsen and Bastien Fidelin, who recently inaugurated Parcelles in this space. Across from their wine shop/épicerie, which this kooky duo opened up in the middle of the national lockdown, their new bistro is finally stepping out of its older sibling’s shadow (without abandoning its roots), showing off its old beams, stone walls, big mirrors and an impressive solid wood bar in the process. As we wait for indoor dining to once again become possible, we nibbled on plates made by chef Julien Chevallier (ex-Justine and Uno) the other day at lunch while seated on the terrace: very elegant spiced quinoa falafel with tzatziki and a salade folle; a rather plump pistachio pâté en croûte; hake (caught offshore) with juicy peas, carrots, asparagus and a bouillabaisse jus; crispy pork shoulder with a mustard sauce, polenta cremosa, capers and roasted garlic; before a generous slice of tangy lemon cream tart with an almond and crumble topping. // Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? A concise list of wines served by the glass, which tend to be natural: a sparkling Savoie wine from the Domaine des 13 Lunes (€7.50 a glass), Avant la Tempête, a Jacquère from Mathilde and Mathieu Apffel (€7.50) or a red Bourgueil from Catherine and Pierre Breton (€7).

PRICE: Appetizers €6-11, mains €14-20, desserts €5.50 to €8.