In the shadow of a wonky church steeple, Léo-Paul Leblond sees the glass half full – and fills it with wine!! In his wine shop, generously stocked with lively bottles, the former sommelier of the Plaza Athénée has a nose for a hard-to-find gems, having carefully curated an off-the-beaten-path selection. On the oak-wood shelves, wallet-friendly finds (including a German Vom Löss riesling for under ten bucks) sit alongside some real showstoppers – like Kaefferkopf, an Alsace Grand Cru from Domaine Geschickt. Pop one open on Thursday and Friday evenings (for a €7 corkage fee), and pair with simple but satisfying bites like œufs mayo, a hefty hot dog or falafel – the perfect way to let loose without going under. Solid stuff! · Roland Tarte

TASTED AND APPROVED: Le Veau, a chenin blanc and debut vintage from the Bertrand brothers in Anjou (€30 in-house).