Best Table Guide 2007
Following a stint in Japan working at Michel Bras’ restaurant Toya, Alexandre and Delphine Bourdas have made an acronym out of the word “fish” (“sakana” in Japanese) for their name and manifesto: “Sa” for “savour,” “Qua” for “quality,” and “Na” for “natural.” And since 2006, they’ve kept to their promise with their recently redone dining room that’s been given the minimalist treatment – bay windows, bricks, solid wood, wild flowers, etc. A demonstration on the €90 menu with: three explosively flavorful mouthfuls (flash-seared rice with a garlic-soy emulsion and grilled sardine; a steamed brioche with horseradish and smoked cod; an oreillette beignet with anise, guacamole and a grilled prawn); a moist Aveyron pascade (a type of omelet) with truffle oil and chives; a combo of asparagus, cauliflower semolina, salmon roe and bricelet (a small, thin and crunchy waffle) with cumin and fennel; and a wonderfully pearly-white pollack topped with an explosively flavorful horseradish broth foam; before a (too small) cube of chicken grilled on the skin, with a purslane jus and a lentil semolina with Xérès. And don’t forget about the sweet, crispy flaky pastry topped with a wave of cream, eroticized by a Machiavellian vanilla flan… To celebrate all that, dive into the wine book that’s rich with around 200 labels: Moulin des Dames, a Bergerac white from the Château Tour des Gendres (€11 a glass), a Mediterranean Grand Rouge from the Château Revelette (€13), a Pouilly-Fumé from the Domaine Tabordet (€45 a bottle) or even a Côtes-Catalanes from Le Mas Las Cabes (€29). Menus €90 (food and wine pairings €55), kids €30. // D.C.