Cave Silo (Mortagne-au-Perche)

© Club des Andouilles

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Now here’s Silo that gives grist to the mill! There are no cereals in sight at this bright shop with weathered wood, instead, there’s nothing but well-made wine. Behind the counter, Marie Verlhac and Valentin Le Cron (he’s a photographer, and she’s a former film press officer), who left life in Montreuil to make a rural den on the edge of La Perche region, with a rather swish selection of wines in tow. The mood? Welcoming, no frills, and with half a dozen references served by the glass (€4-5), plus some quality provisions to gobble when you’re hungry – charcuterie and local cheeses from La Ferme de l’Étoile and La Ferme du Pis-Vert, or canned fish from Poisson d’Ouest in the Finistère… And above all, in the pocket-sized cellar hidden at the back, there are bottles glug-glug-galore (corkage fee of €7): Acratus, a Lorraine pinot noir from Stéphane Cyran (€31 a bottle), Le Bois du Gland, a cabernet rouge from Cyril Le Moing in the Loire (€19) or Voilà l’Été, a rosé from Marie Rocher (€17), as well as ciders from Antoine Marois (La Roche or La Garenne, €11 each). The cherry on the Silo: the bar also serves coffee during the day, with coffee from local roaster Noiram and homemade cookies. // Jean Pascal

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: The gamay from Damien Menut, who took part of Bruno Aillon’s vines to make a silky and tangy red (€21).

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