Les pieds dans l'eau

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Initially, this former mill was falling into ruin below Montagne-au-Perche. Now it’s the lair of chef Gaspard Noury (ex-Ducasse and Têtedoie) and his wife Méline. To be more precise, it’s a neo-auberge with Scandinavian style, equipped with a double terrace and breathtaking views of the prairie, where you can treat yourself to impeccably prepared seasonal cuisine. The day we went for lunch, we indulged in a creamy spinach purée and pickled carrots; before an invigoratingly photogenic pollack carpaccio with refreshing herbs, raspberries and violets; grilled hake served with flash-seared radishes, roasted fennel, and a double serving of celery and spinach purée; and a sensational plate of fresh strawberries, strawberry ice cream and pistachio cream, topped with rice tuiles puffed up with powdered sugar. // Marcelle Claudepierre 

FEELING THIRSTY? A special mention for the very round and fresh Ventoux white from the Domaine de Fondrèche (€7 a glass), Morogues, a Menetou-Salon white from the Domaine Pellé (€31 a bottle), an Alsatian Pinot gris from René Kientz (€25), a Bourgueil wine from the Domaine du Petit Bondieu (€20)… 
PRICE: Set menus €19, €29 (weekday lunch) and €39, à la carte €38-48. 

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