First he was intrigued by sociology, then by architecture, and then after a brief stint down under, Paul Lacheray ended up finding his true calling while watching Top Chef! The result? Six years of training later, you’ll find him in this anonymous bistro (a black facade, wooden benches, exposed rafters) named the Huître Brûlée. Like an old-fashioned DJ, this jack of all trades scratches out a beat on his two induction hot plates and plancha grill, sending out a gourmet flow, brought out to the dining room by Chloé Woestelandt. On the menu, you’ll find well sourced regional ingredients (squid ink bread from Tétard, fish from Cap en Baie fishermen, Borniambuc cream, organic vegetables from Marie-Pierre Canu) and cuisine that likes to shake things up. On the €22 menu the day we went for lunch: a surprising white “mayo”, made only with egg whites, plus razor clams and their contrasting jus, and a veil of garlic, onions, shallots and ginger; then a lovely veal rump served with tender potatoes and asparagus; before an addictive crumble with rhubarb compote and notes of thyme from the local scrubland…. Yum! To drink: Aligoté Bouzeron from the Domaine de Villaine (€9 a glass), Terrasses-du-Larzac rubic from Le Mas des Brousses (€48 a bottle). At lunch, there’s a €17 set menu and a menu for €22. À la carte €29-45. // D.C.