The seagulls squawk, the ocean spray soaks, the wine flows! The scene is set in the center of Granville, where Mélisande Malle, ex-sommelier at The Presbytère not far away, rolls up her sleeves to quench thirsts in her small, low-ceilinged salon, with walls covered in arty posters and bottles galore – to take away or guzzle on site. The Normandy-native operates naturally and with a lunar influence: La Louvetrie, the emblematic muscadet from Jo Landron (€6 a bottle), Sanguine, a gamay teinturier from small-scale winegrowers Vin et Pic in Forez (€18), or a macabeu, grenache gris and grenache blanc blend from the Amistat estate in Roussillon (€50). All made even better with oysters from Thomas Lenoir, the porky products from Andouillerie de la Baleine or a well-made small plate of smashed potatoes, smoked paprika, bacon, cream cheese and chives, with everything varying according to her inspiration of the day and the local produce. Come share the wine!

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Pointe de Silex, a rather taut Vouvray from François-Xavier Barc (€15).