Back in the day, this was THE place to be. The place where curious and well-informed drinkers gathered. An avant-garde wine shop run by two wine lovers: Momoko and Fabrice Monnin, pioneers of the natural movement in France. Eighteen years later, in 2019, the couple finally gave up the corkscrew in order to prune their very own vines, handing over the keys to their baby to the lawyer Vincent Guiseppi. What came next? The same neo-rustic space (old rafters, a wall covered in corks, Edison light bulbs), the same highly naturalist spirit. Among the most prominent bottles we noticed the day we went: Avant la Tempête, a Savoie Jacquère by Camille and Mathieu Apffel (‹22), Au Lever du Rouge, a Jura Pinot noir from the Domaine de La Tournelle (€28), or even Le Banyuls de Môman, a Grenache produced by Bruno Duchêne (€35). And for nibbles, tuna belly, Bellota chorizo, grilled artichokes… along with a few more elaborate dishes made by the boss, including a lentil salad with Morteau sausage, capers and cornichons, and a cumin-spiced chocolate lava cake. // Sophie Fonfek 

The bullet-proof bottle: Elle aime 2018, a wine by Alice Bouvot (Domaine de l’Octavin), an audacious macerated Pinot noir and Chardonnay blend (€30).