restaurant

L'Oiseau du Temps

  • Date
  • share

Blanche, the youngest daughter of Dominique and the excellent chef Bernard Loiseau, who passed away in 2003, was entrusted with the latest addition to the small family empire, based in Burgundy (Saulieu, Beaune, Dijon). Here, under the spectacular arches of an 18th-century wheat barn, the Burgundy and Franc-Comté terroir is ever-present. Consider the Morteau sausage in brioche, the Comtois steak, the trout fillet from the Jura slow-roasted in olive oil, or the beef bourguignon with crapiaud du Morvan potato pancakes… We opted for a perfectly made Comtois pork terrine, steamed inside a red kuri squash; followed by chicken in Gaston Gérard-style sauce, aka a rich combination of cream, mustard, Comté, vin jaune and paprika, which you sponge up until there’s no bread left on the table, served with some lovely glazed vegetables as a vegetal counterpoint (zucchini, carrots, spring onions, new potatoes and cherry tomatoes); before, the ultimate show-stopper, a dessert cart featuring desserts made using “the recipes of Le Relais Bernard Loiseau,” including a Paris-Besançon made with rather dull pastry and an overly compact caramelized hazelnut cream. // Adrien Nouviaire 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Burgundy wines of course, from the Irancy by Richoux (€45 a bottle), to the 2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant from Romanée-Conti (€2,500)… Served by the glass (€7-17), a superb Coteaux-du-Grésivaudan verdesse blanc from Finot, or a Côtes-du-Jura white from the Domaine Courbet, which pairs perfectly with the chicken. 
PRICE: : Set menu €28-38 (weekday lunch), à la carte €50-64 (dinner and Saturday lunch). 

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The new Le Fooding France Guide is available!

In the latest sizzling edition of the Fooding guide, discover 350 new hotspots that will define France in 2025, along with our highly anticipated awards list, a special section featuring articles like “oui oui baguette” that dissect modern French society, plus a family-friendly magazine supplement for cool kids.

Le Fooding’s brand-new France guide frontcover
I want it!
About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France and Belgium, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allows you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting…

Fooding® is a registered trademark.