From Mokoloco to Locomal, Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem have done more than reshuffle a few letters. They’ve swapped their rotating-chef canteen for a Mexican haunt with a sand-colored facade. At the stoves of the seemingly endless open kitchen stretching the length of the narrow dining room? Jose Oviedo, who did stints at El Nopal and Mokonuts, the duo’s flagship restaurant. He brings a ...