Hallelujah! Siblings Joséphine and Louis Rohrer are bringing the Holy Spirit back to the heart of Marseille’s Le Panier quartier. After weathering a few growing pains at their snack bar Aux Deux Moulins, the duo has leveled up with a full-fledged restaurant, housed within the oldest bakery in the neighborhood. The other night, seated on the laid-back terrace in Les Accoules, mass was held with laser-sharp dishes delivered by Javier Meneses (ex-Anema in Biarritz) and his team: sublime raw cuttlefish floating angelically in fermented tomato water, given new life by some seriously spicy chili oil and shiso from the Big Bloom farm; righteous haricots verts joined in communion with tantalizing slices of tuna belly, smoked cherries and goat cheese curds; before a sensational hay-smoked bluefin tuna crudo, intensified by a lacto-fermented apricot condiment, habaneros, purslane and fig leaf oil. And for the final course, wickedly delicious desserts that could tempt even the most virtuous of souls: ethereal hibiscus-sumac granita over silky goat’s milk ice cream, with cherry jam and crumble topping, or sinfully delicious chocolate mousse with marigold ice cream and pickled green peppercorns. Amen to that, check be damned! // Maude Zarella
FEELING THIRSTY? Quality bottles and sacred chalices, devoutly chosen by sommelier Lawrence Hirgo (ex-Fritto in Sète): Insolente, a chenin produced by Laura David, Clarete, a Portuguese wine by Vizinho Vinhateiro (€33 a bottle), or a German pinot blanc by the Brand Bros (€43). And for some fun no-low options, there’s homemade peach iced tea or orange blossom bissap (€5 each).
PRICE: : Snacks €11-16, shared plates €20-50, desserts €9.
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