Suffren

Not satisfied with simply dolling out napkins and forks at the Citadelle de Marseille, culinary dervishes Paul Vincent and Adrien Tran (Chaleur Tournante) are now whirling about the former restaurant Les Trois Coups. Tastefully refurbished by talented architect Véronique Vincent, their new space now boasts brick-red banquette seating, a long neon light running along the ceiling and a sprawling terrace that spills out onto Place Edmond-Rostand – the perfect spot for a taste of their bistro cooking, lovingly prepared like a good old-fashioned Sunday roast. The night we went, Paul sent out all of the following from the open kitchen: saucisson brioché (whole sausage baked inside brioche) glazed in a rich jus de viande; cheeky white asparagus draped in a voluptuous wild garlic mousseline; before a celeriac cordon bleu that would make the original version blush, paired with oyster mushrooms and braised chicory – or a more classic pollack dressed in lemony beurre blanc sauce and served with mixed spring vegetables. And to round out the meal, there was chocolate-peanut pudding drizzled with olive oil and a pinch of fleur de sel. // Maude Zarella

FEELING THIRSTY? Well shaken cocktails (including a Paloma pimped out with mezcal, grapefruit and jalapeño, €10 a glass) and a naturalist wine list presented in an adorable spiral notebook: a chignin from Anne-Sophie and Jean-François Quénard (€39 a bottle), a Côte-de-Brouilly by Bonnet-Cotton (€52) or an even rarer 1996 magnum from the Domaine de Trévallon (€320).
PRICE: : Appetizers €7-12, mains €17-22, dessert €6 to €7.50.