Marseille has a new spot that’s been aged to perfection in the form of Nabu(chodonosor) and Jéro(boam) near Place Notre-Dame-du-Mont, where Alexis Couët (a former manager at Le Vivier) and Hugues-Emmanuel Le Quéré (who we’d previously noticed working front-of-house at Elmer in Paris) have popped open a briny cave à manger! The duo have put together a blackboard menu that’s heavily focused on the tides, which you can nibble at the counter, seated around one of the light wood tables or on the lovely terrace. The night we went, we cast our nets onto a dozen incredible Isigny oysters served with seaweed compound butter and shallot vinaigrette; languorous raw prawns with a hit of rosemary oil and ponzu sauce; mushroom and miso velouté dotted with golden croutons; and some memorable bluefin tuna tataki drizzled in a diabolically delicious fennel and mint sauce vierge; before a thin little slice of boozy pear and red wine tart… An experience that’ll have you seeing the glass half full as you admire the sea’s bounty! // Maud Zarella
FEELING THIRSTY? : A selection of carefully chosen natural bottles, including some of which are available in nebuchadnezzar (15-liter) or jeroboam (3-liter) formats: Patience, a 2023 Anjou chenin produced by Quentin Cailleau from the Domaine Sauveroy (€8 a glass), Petit Ours, a syrah from Matthieu Barret in the Rhône (€42 a bottle), or a red Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune from the Domaine Ami (€66 a bottle).
PRICE: : Set menu €25 (lunch), plates €6-17, cheeses €12, desserts €8-9 (dinner).
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