restaurant

Elmer

Elmer (Paris)

© Alexandre Ubeda

  • Date
  • share

From his travels (Asia, South America) and various mentors (Pierre Gagnaire, Sylvestre Wahid), Simon Horwitz brings an eye for detail to this classy bistro (solid oak tables, cubes de Beaunis mosaic tiles, overhead spotlights). His motto? Well-sourced meats, masterful techniques, plant-forward dishes with a twist and attentive staff. The day we went for lunch, the set menu included a straightforward Albacore tuna ceviche marinated in buttermilk tiger’s milk with lemon, spring onions, crisp diced cucumber and fresh raspberries; followed by plump and tender slices of eggplant roasted with tandoori spices and flame-charred cherry tomatoes with some refreshing mozzarella, all drizzled in a mint and cilantro yogurt sauce; and finally, a madeleine brushed with mint marmalade, and paired with flame-charred apricots and a fromage blanc sorbet. Also noticed on a nearby table: vanilla and almond-hazelnut praline tarte for two… or for one, if you’re really hungry! At night, Simon unveils some beautiful roasted beasts to share – John Dory fillet with browned butter, dry-aged Simmental prime rib, suckling leg of lamb… // Henriette Ma

FEELING THIRSTY? A respectable wine-o-theque: a Roussanne, grenache blanc and vermentino blend from Emmanuelle Delon (€9 a glass), or perhaps an aged hard apple cider from Cyril Zangs (€36 a bottle), a macabeu from La Mariota (€58) or even a cabernet franc from the Domaine Bobinet (€85).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €32-38 (lunch), à la carte €70-90.

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The Belgium Guide 2024 is out of the oven!

Discover the latest selection of the Kingdom’s 350 best addresses (restaurants, bars, cellars, shops and bedrooms), an award’s list celebrating this year’s favorite spots, and a magazine section featuring « Belgium Underground » exploring the margins of the food world, its hidden stories and some of its most taboo subjects.

2024 Le Fooding Belgium guide frontcover
I want it!
About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… And after conquering France, Belgium is Le Fooding guide’s latest playground!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.