Elmer

Armed with a pachydermic résumé (Gagnaire, Meneau, Wahid, Grébaut…), Simon Horwitz traveled through Asia and South America before setting himself up in this elegant, atmospheric Parisian bistro (oak tables, an industrial ceiling, an Art Deco style patchwork bar). From behind his shiny rotisserie sitting in an open space, the polygluttonous kitchen veteran is breathing new life into cooking techniques. For us, the other night: a lively veal tartare topped with anchovy mayonnaise; saffrony octopus that was perfectly roasted and bordered by guanciale; beautiful slices of suckling veal chops slow-cooked on the BBQ until medium rare, glistening with a reduction and served with pillowy zucchini blossoms; before a delicious Valrhona Andoa chocolate tart. At lunch, there’s a nice menu which features the likes of: beet rolls stuffed with mackerel rillettes; spit-roasted chicken with satay-roasted carrots and mushrooms; baba au rhum with orange syrup and whipped cream. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Expect both natural and conventional wines: a Saumur-Champigny from Bobinet (€9 a glass), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from Pascal Chalon (€50 a bottle), an Alsace-Riesling from Vincent Fleith (€55) and a colheita port from Poças (€11 for 80 ml) that’s ideal for dessert.

PRICE: Menus €26-32 and €48 (lunch), à la carte €61-74 (dinner).