Elmer

From his travels (Asia, South America) and various mentors (Pierre Gagnaire, Sylvestre Wahid), Simon Horwitz brings an eye for detail to this classy bistro (solid oak tables, cubes de Beaunis mosaic tiles, overhead spotlights). His motto? Well-sourced meats, masterful techniques, plant-forward dishes with a twist and attentive staff. The day we went for lunch, the set menu included a straightforward Albacore tuna ceviche marinated in buttermilk tiger’s milk with lemon, spring onions, crisp diced cucumber and fresh raspberries; followed by plump and tender slices of eggplant roasted with tandoori spices and flame-charred cherry tomatoes with some refreshing mozzarella, all drizzled in a mint and cilantro yogurt sauce; and finally, a madeleine brushed with mint marmalade, and paired with flame-charred apricots and a fromage blanc sorbet. Also noticed on a nearby table: vanilla and almond-hazelnut praline tarte for two… or for one, if you’re really hungry! At night, Simon unveils some beautiful roasted beasts to share – John Dory fillet with browned butter, dry-aged Simmental prime rib, suckling leg of lamb… // Henriette Ma

FEELING THIRSTY? A respectable wine-o-theque: a Roussanne, grenache blanc and vermentino blend from Emmanuelle Delon (€9 a glass), or perhaps an aged hard apple cider from Cyril Zangs (€36 a bottle), a macabeu from La Mariota (€58) or even a cabernet franc from the Domaine Bobinet (€85).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €32-38 (lunch), à la carte €70-90.