Elmer (Paris)

© Alexandre Ubeda

  • Date
  • share

From his travels (Asia, South America) and various mentors (Pierre Gagnaire, Sylvestre Wahid), Simon Horwitz brought an eye for detail to this classy bistro (solid oak tables, cubes de Beaunis mosaic tiles, overhead spotlights). His motto? Well-sourced meats, masterful techniques and attentive staff. For us, the night we went: delicious tourteau crab rolls with apple and wasabi; a subtle pollack ceviche draped over a beetroot jelly; perfectly barbecued lamb shoulder from Provence; hearty spit-roasted suckling pig that was crispy yet still tender, with a rich jus de cuisson and ricotta ravioli on a bed of spinach; before a sweet raspberry meringue tuile with pistachio cream and Greek yogurt sorbet. On the lunch menu? Leeks, smoked herring, Tosazu vinegar and pickled mustard seeds; cod with parsnip in browned butter, broccoli and a satay beurre blanc sauce; quince confit with caramel, a crispy tuile and spiced ice cream… // T.J.

FEELING THIRSTY? A respectable wine-o-theque that includes both conventional and natural wines: a Loire Sauvignon blanc from Olivier Bellanger (€9 a glass), a Bordeaux white from the Château Vilatte (€50 a bottle), a Coteaux-de-Dijon red from the Domaine de la Cras (€55)…

PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €29-34 (lunch), à la carte €65-80.

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.