Elmer (Paris)

© Alexandre Ubeda

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From his travels (Asia, South America) and various mentors (Pierre Gagnaire, Sylvestre Wahid), Simon Horwitz brought an eye for detail to this classy bistro (solid oak tables, cubes de Beaunis mosaic tiles, overhead spotlights). His motto? Well-sourced meats, masterful techniques and attentive staff. For us, the night we went: delicious tourteau crab rolls with apple and wasabi; a subtle pollack ceviche draped over a beetroot jelly; perfectly barbecued lamb shoulder from Provence; hearty spit-roasted suckling pig that was crispy yet still tender, with a rich jus de cuisson and ricotta ravioli on a bed of spinach; before a sweet raspberry meringue tuile with pistachio cream and Greek yogurt sorbet. On the lunch menu? Leeks, smoked herring, Tosazu vinegar and pickled mustard seeds; cod with parsnip in browned butter, broccoli and a satay beurre blanc sauce; quince confit with caramel, a crispy tuile and spiced ice cream… // T.J.

FEELING THIRSTY? A respectable wine-o-theque that includes both conventional and natural wines: a Loire Sauvignon blanc from Olivier Bellanger (€9 a glass), a Bordeaux white from the Château Vilatte (€50 a bottle), a Coteaux-de-Dijon red from the Domaine de la Cras (€55)…

PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €29-34 (lunch), à la carte €65-80.

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