Small in size, big on grub! Sébastien Fleury, a former sommelier at the nearby Martin, and Matt Hiltemann, a chef who used to work at Quo Vadis in London, are brimming with XXL ideas at their cozy wine bar, done up with unfinished stone walls, a long marble bar and vintage mirrors. And if one of them knows how to uncork tantalizing bottles of wine, the other always has something delicious cooking to complement the libations… Just take the parade of dishes the night we went, served as shared plates: a sensual composition of white asparagus, lardo di Colonnata and raw cream dotted with pea shoots; an incredible “blood pancake,” aka a thin and crispy boudin noir crêpe draped in leek ribbons and smoked eel, all topped with egg yolk and squid ink mayonnaise; flame-kissed mackerel covered in blood orange quarters, rhubarb and shiitake mushrooms glazed in a subtle salsa verde; poached chicken supreme over a cheeky, creamy potato purée, amplified by a chicken and wild garlic jus; grilled leg of lamb with roasted carrots and celeriac wedges in a legendary, umami-rich miso and anchovy sauce; before the final course, chocolate and olive oil ganache for dessert. A mini bar for man, a giant bar for satiety. // Pica Bidon

FEELING THIRSTY? : Bottles that are as natural as they come: a Jura Chardonnay from Fumey Chatelain (€7 a glass), a Beaujolais from Jean-Claude Lapalu (€45 a bottle), a skin-contact Muscat d’Alexandrie from the southern wine producer Jeff Coutelou (€55)… 
PRICE: : À la carte €22-38, set menu €56 (5 shared plates).