They’re the talk of the town! After mastering their moves with Mauro Colagreco, a couple from Lorraine have landed in Montpellier’s backcountry to bring the groove back to local institution Le Pic Saint Loup. Think exposed beams and stone walls, a crackling wood-burning stove and hackberry trees ready to cast shade over the terrace come sunny days. As for the choreography? Four- or seven-course menus, orchestrated in the kitchen by Julien Vahl, who sets the tempo with the day’s catch from Sète, paired with pitch-perfect local produce and plated on elegant tableware, delivered by Lucie Péneau – who also curates a tightly edited list of natural wines. A waltz worth getting swept up in! · Roland Tarte

Ate: Among others, silky raw shrimp and button mushrooms glistening in a meadowsweet vinaigrette; a devilishly good pig’s trotter stew with potato emulsion and a secret broth; and wilted beet leaves with beef tongue and sauce vierge.

Price: Lunch menu €45 (four courses), dinner menu €68 (seven courses).