Created initially as a shop, the natural wine haven of Aurélie Malaise (a former event planning professional), Lionel Seux (the former manager of the restaurant Le Contrat), Michaël Charbit (a co-manager of an English school) and Manon Akhrouf (the young chef who used to work at La Coquerie in Sète and under Guillaume Leclère) has slowly been transformed into a wine-centric bistro. You can still grab a bottle to go, but the straightforward fare at this spot whose walls are lined with bottles is worth checking out! For us, the other night: good aniseed hake rillettes served with thinly sliced and toasted multigrain bread; fried octopus (that was very well done!) served with cumin-spiced carrot purée and pickled carrot ribbons; before yellow plums atop an airy basil mousse. Other options available à la carte: guinea fowl ravioli in a bouillon made from the same bird; coco de Paimpol beans with dried pork belly and sage; pissaladière with fresh anchovies… // Gwen Jacquère 

FEELING THIRSTY? Some very lovely natural bottles that you can pick out for yourself from the shelves (+€10 from the displayed to-go price if you plan on drinking them in house), unless you’d rather take Lionel’s advice: La Bohème, a oxidative white from the little-known Roussillon estate Le Coteau Vermel (a true revelation at just €6 a glass), Classe, a lively red from Jean-François Coutelou (€24 a bottle), Massale, a Languedoc red from the Domaine Opi d’Aqui (€34)… 
PRICE: Plates €6-16, platters €21-39.