Nestled beside an old herbalist shop in the medieval heart of town, a stethoscope’s throw from where Rabelais studied to be a doctor, Bleu is the ultimate cure for the blues! Behind the green (not blue!) grill lies a beautifully designed shop (a central butcher’s block, tinted beams, chic neon lights), where butcher-charcutier Enzo Foures (ex-Boucherie Fébéo) and former marketer turned cheesemonger Clémence Hoareau dispense the stinkiest finds in the region: marbled goat’s milk tomme, cardabelle from Lozère (a sheep’s milk riff on brie), manigodine from Haute-Savoie made with raw cow’s milk and wrapped in fragrant spruce bark, and British Shropshire – that gloriously orange cousin of Stilton. The pair also flex their in-house charcuterie skills, rolling out delights like ham marbled with tarragon and mustard, or duck rillettes. And for those who just can’t wait and want it all now, they also sling seriously good sandwiches (including a grilled cheese, this time round oozing smoked raclette, butternut squash and hazelnuts), best devoured on the wooden bench out front when the sun plays nice, before rounding things off with a light fromage blanc whipped with praline. · Fanchon Designat

THE HIDDEN GEM: The last remaining farmhouse Mont d’Or from Ferme Mamet (€22.70 each), which melts faster in the oven – and on the tongue – than its dairy-made cousins.